Botanicas, for those unfamiliar with
the term, refers broadly speaking to retail stores that sell a
variety of items and services, often related to Latin American folk
magic and alternative medicine. San Antonio have several, most of
them located in the southern, mostly Mexican, part of the city. The
largest one in San Antonio is Papa
Jim's Botanica. Visiting Papa Jim's is a bit of a strange
experience. You get the feeling that you are in a esoteric
supermarket with rows of incense, candles, statues, oils and anything
else you might need. In contrast to many other botanicas most of the
items and services are provided in English. This is probably not
mainly to court the non-hispanic people who visit the store, but
because a rapidly growing section of Mexicans in San Antonio no
longer speak Spanish.
In the sale section some things stand
out. The most obvious being the enormous popularity of Santa Muerte,
a personification of death who can help her devotees with a variety
of requests.
Santa Muerte is a Mexican folk saint, who by various
people will be described as an angel, saint or even a goddess (the
later based on a probably erroneous identification of her with the
Aztec goddess of the underworld Mictecacihuatl).
The cult around her have grown rapidly in the last decade in both
Mexico and in the United States.
The saint is highly controversial due to her popularity among drug cartels and people connected to it. Still most people who consider themselves her devotes are ordinary people, mainly poor urban workers and people regarded as social outcasts in various forms. Today her cult is starting to spread outside these groups and there is also a growing interest in her outside Mexican communities. There is, as we can see here also a large commerce around her.
The other notable thing is the
syncretism, the items sold come from a variety of traditions one
would expect to find like Santeria, Bruja, Curandero and Catholicism,
but there is also items and books related to Wicca, Satanism, New Age
and Western Esotericism. For example, one of the most popular items
at the store is The Witches Calender by Llwellyn. In contrast
to what one will find in most Western Magical traditions the focus is
very practical. The main question is if it works, not spiritual
development or a re-enchantment of the world. Neither are there any
moral concerns as to what you need the items for. You want to get
your boyfriend back or ruin his life, get more money or make the law
stay away, regardless, there is something here to help.
Papa Jim's is a good place to start if
one happens to be in San Antonio and want to start exploring the
world of Mexican folk magic. The people who work there are friendly
and very helpful and most of the items very cheap. There is also a large variety of items to chose
from. For academics like myself the place is almost like a
smorgosbord when looking for examples of cultural syncretism and the
problematic division of the sacred and the profane.
And if when you have finished visiting
Papa Jim's Botanica feel to buy a pet-fish on the way home, right
next to the botanica is Papa Jim's Tropical Fish.